Service with a "peace" of mind

Thursday, July 29, 2010

The Difference From Split & Splitting Ends

These are just some samples of what split/splitting ends can look like!!





Split ends, who wants them around away?! Unfortunately, to healthy hair care lovers they are a fact of life. Hair gets old, days when it goes through manipulation, therefore hair becomes damaged. When the hair has experienced a great amount of trauma or has reached a certain cycle, these little "healthy hair wreckers" crop up and can destroy our healthy hair dreams . While our hair will never be totally free of split ends, there are certain measures that can taken to ensure that they don't take over what we have worked so hard to maintain!!

Where do they come from?
Split ends are caused by many types of hair trauma, but are typically the result of a low moisture balance within the hair strand. When hair is allowed to remain dry, brittle, and under-moisturized for extended periods of time, the cuticle begins to crack and unravel, exposing the cortex of the hair.

Okay, so from what I've learned is that there is a difference from split ends and splitting ends. Splitting ends can be anywhere along the hair shaft where the cuticle is actively breaking apart and the cortex of the hair is exposed. This splitting can occur at any point along the hair shaft, but are the most likely to be near the ends of the hair shaft. Some say that splitting ends that are not "searched & destroyed" will continue to split up the entire shaft, however this is not always the case. Depending on the angle of the split, the tear can reach fairly high up the hair shaft, but a majority of splits simply peel away or break off not far from or right where they start.

On the other hand, split ends are ends where the main split has already peeled away from the rest of the hair shaft. Therefore these ends are no longer splitting, they have already split and broken off. These are the ends that we see so many of us trying to hold onto, those thin "see through" ends. Split ends can become splitting ends if not "searched & destroyed" with a sharp pair of shears.

Other types of "split" ends are small breaks in the hair shaft known as trichorrexis nodosa. These are areas where the actual hair cortex has swollen and exploded within the shaft (now that's scary). You can tell these types of splits by the white dot or node, commonly at the very end of the hair shaft. They can also occur mid-shaft where they will appear as a hairs that bend in hard, unnatural 90 degree angles-- ready to break fully away.

How can I know if I have split or splitting ends?

The best way to check for split ends is by thoroughly inspecting the hair shaft. Most splits occur along the lower half to 1/3 of the hair shaft with a majority being along the ends Other ways you can tell you tell if you may have split ends are :



* hair that is lifeless (no swang)

* tangles easily

* just cant seem to hold a curl nor does it straighten well with heat

* varies in length throughout the head

* shows clear areas of dullness or thinness (transparency).

* excessive breakage

* redder near the ends

Anytime a hair is split, the end that is left behind has more chances of becoming a new splitting end because most hairs do not break cleanly when they break off on their own. This is why it is best to trim split ends with sharp hair shears before they have the chance to break off by themselves.

Split ends are caused by many types of hair trauma, but are typically the result of a low moisture balance within the hair strand. When hair is allowed to remain dry, brittle, and under-moisturized for extended periods of time, the cuticle begins to crack and unravel, exposing the cortex of the hair.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Moisture & Protein Go Hand "N" Hand

    Do you find random hairs in your comb, on your shirt, sink, and/or the room where you are grooming?! If your answer is yes, then it's possible you maybe experiencing breakage. For black hair in particular, hair breakage is typically caused by an imbalance of moisture and protein.

Moisture:
   Hair needs water to maintain it's ability to stretch. Because water is the ultimate moisturizer for the hair, water based moisturizers are superb at providing the hair with moisture. Ideal moisturizers will not contain filler-up ingredients such as petroleum, lanolin, and/or mineral oil. These ingredients are sealants that will actually seal out the much needed moisture that the hair needs.

Protein:
  There are various types of proteins, which some are stronger than others. But daily/weekly use of the most mildest protein treatments can throw off your moisture and protein balance depending of the individual. You would need to dabble around with products to find out which one works with your hair type the best, because your hair tolerance of protein level will vary from product to product and not necessarily protein to protein.
Women with relaxed or color treated hair need more protein than others because these chemical processes wear down the protein bond within the hair.

     The moisture & protein balance are not opposing forces, one trying to overthrow the other. These two componets work hand "n" hand to produce a healthy head of hair. Having the proper balance is achieved by using the correct combinations of moisture & protein based products for your hair type. Here, take a look at these two scenarios:

Scenario 1: Kim's hair is breaking like crazy and feels like a brillo pad. It is just plain crunchy and dry! Every time she touches it, pieces seem to just pop right off. Snap, crackle, pop. Combing is impossible without tons of little hairs covering her sink and back. Her hair feels hard and rough even when wet. She's given it protein treatments because the product says it is supposed to stop breakage in its tracks and rebuild the hair. But so far, nothing is working and her problem is getting worse. 



 Scenario 2: Trina's hair is breaking like crazy as well. Her hair feels dry, looks dull, and is very weak. Her hair is too weak to withstand simple combing. It feels extra stretchy when wet and almost follows the comb as she pulls through to detangle. Her hair is just limp and has no life. She's deep conditioned and done hot oil treatments on her hair once a week. Since her breakage began, she has stepped up the conditioning but her problem has gotten worse.

Same Problem- Different Solutions
Growing healthy hair is a task because you have to maintain proper moisture and protein balance. Hair that is shifted to far to either side will break.

How to access your hair and what it is lacking:

{ wet or dry } Stretches slightly without breaking and will return to its normal length. Great balancing act, stick with what you are doing!!

{ wet or dry } Stretches a little more than normal and then breaks. You are in need of protein.

{ wet or dry } Stretches waaaayyyy out, but does not break. You guessed it!! More protein.

{ wet or dry } A small amount of tension causes it to snap. You are in need of moisture.

{ wet or dry } Rough, dry, brittle, tangles. You are in need of moisture.



Signs of too much moisture
  Hair that is shifted too far on the moisture side will be "super-elastic" and stretch more because it lacks protein structure. Over-conditioned and over-moisturized hair has a  "mush-like" or "overly soft," feeling, especially when wet. This kind of hair is a weak & limp. Protein deficient hair will tend to pull and stretch along with the comb and then break because of the low structural protein stores, and overabundance of moisture. As this was the issue with Trina's hair

Signs of too much protein:

 Elasticity is what allows us to style, stretch, and manipulate our hair without breakage. Hair that breaks with very little tension or stretching is a sign of too much protein, and a deficiency of moisture.  Too much structure makes the hair hard or brittle, and decreases its elasticity. This was the issue with Kim's hair, too much protein and not enough moisture.